记忆的味道 | 鲜香辣润咸 阿婆手中的闽南味道

发布时间:2023-12-28 08:59:35

编者按

2020年起,为促进中华优秀传统文化的国内传播与国际化译述,上海外国语大学英语学院打造大型实践活动“记忆的味道”,追寻五湖四海的记忆,讲述文化背后的故事。上外英院传统文化志愿服务队于每年寒暑假分赴祖国七大方言区,聚焦非遗及传统文化进行实践与探索。活动围绕家乡年俗、红色文化、手工游艺、音乐舞蹈、二十四节气、非遗文化等中华优秀传统文化进行实践,取得丰硕成果,曾获得“挑战杯”“互联网+”“致远计划”社会实践大赛等国家级、市级、校级奖项。本季“记忆的味道”聚焦非遗美食,将推出双语视频、双语推送讲述美食中的非遗文化,感悟非遗传承背后的动人故事,推动中华优秀传统文化的国内外传播。


闽方言区


闽方言是我国七大方言区之一(Min dialect is one of the seven major dialects in China),主要分布在福建、台湾、海南等地区。其内部又细分七个方言区,其中厦门话属闽南语区。


闽方言区分布图

摘自《中国语言地图集第2版汉语方言卷》


舌尖上的闽南不止有独具韵味的闽南语,更有情意满满的闽南味道。非遗美食薄饼就是闽南味道的一大代表。(Minnan pancakes hold a special place as they have been listed as an intangible cultural heritage.)boia bian是薄饼在闽语中的读法,用地道的闽南语念出这道独具风味的美食的名字,你会发现它与“婆饼”谐音,意思是,只有自家的阿婆才肯花时间、花心思做好它,且家家都有自己的专属配方。(In the Minnan dialect, they are pronounced as "boia bian", and when spoken, you'll notice the similarity to "bo bian" (granny's pancakes). This resemblance signifies that only grandmothers are willing to devote time and effort to preparing them meticulously, and for this reason, each family has its own distinctive recipe.)

本期“记忆的味道”上外英院传统文化志愿服务队带领大家走进闽南,看那一卷饼皮、一锅菜、一桌配料,在阿婆手下如何变化出千家万户的不同风味。

1

“婆饼”“薄饼”

“薄饼”的由来是一段美谈,要从四百年前明朝重臣蔡复一(金门人)的夫人李氏(同安人)开始说起。蔡复一公务繁忙,经常废寝忘食,夫人十分心疼,就将鱼、肉、虾、菜、笋、豆等用微火炖熟,用面皮包卷,置于夫婿案头,让他边吃边办公,方便又可口。(With love and care, she stewed a delightful mixture of fish, meat, shrimp, vegetables, bamboo shoots, and beans over a gentle fire. Then, she rolled these savoury ingredients into a delicate crust, creating the first version of the pancakes. She placed these flavorful pancakes on her husband's desk, providing him with a delicious and nourishing meal while continuing his work. )流传下来,这种菜便被称为“婆饼”,厦门话“婆”“薄”同音,便又称为“薄饼”。

从此,蔡夫人李氏做“薄饼”助夫的故事传为美谈,薄饼也作为蔡氏家族传家宝,代代相传。这口舌尖上的美味也在闽南及东南亚地区流传开来;近年来,还于2009年列入厦门市市级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录,于2017年列入福建省省级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录,成为舌尖上的“非遗”。(In recognition of its cultural significance and importance, the legacy of these pancakes was officially acknowledged when it was inscribed on the Xiamen's Intangible Cultural Heritage List in 2009; and in 2017, it received further acknowledgement by being listed on Fujian's Intangible Cultural Heritage List. This esteemed recognition bestows upon it the status of a cherished intangible cultural heritage (ICH) on the tip of everyone's tongue.)


2

鲜、香、辣、润、咸

面团在铁板上被迅速按下、旋转,一张圆如满月的面皮便做成了,色白薄皮,又有韧性。(The dough is skillfully pressed and rotated on an iron plate, creating a thin yet flexible crust, shaped perfectly round and white like a full moon. )面皮的制作讲究熟能生巧的技巧,薄饼的馅料则看重各家的独特“秘方”,融着阿婆的一番独特心意。

阿婆们根据自家风味,将糯米、虾仁等炒熟、加入骨头汤焖制成油饭,再加上由海蛎等十几种时令食材炒成的菜料,安心暖胃。(Based on each family's own preference for flavours, the grannies will first fry shrimp and glutinous rice; they then stew the rice in bone broth; finally, they will add more than a dozen seasonal fried ingredients, such as oysters, ensuring a comforting and hearty dining experience.)

吃薄饼时,摊开面皮,先撒上炸海苔,然后舀起阿婆自制的油饭、菜料,卷成圆筒状,捧在手中;可别忘了淋上甜辣酱,这样才能凑成鲜、香、辣、润、咸。(The first step to enjoy the pancake is to spread out the dough and sprinkle it with fried seaweed. Next, scoop up stewed rice and ingredient fillings, both homemade by grannies, and roll them up in your hand. Finally, drizzle it with sweet chilli sauce, so that you can treat yourself to a savoury blend of umami, fragrance, spiciness, moisture, and a hint of saltiness. )这口还没回味完,阿婆已经递过来下一个了。


3

非遗传承人——“薄饼嫂”吴招治

非遗传承人吴招治几十年专注于一件事——做薄饼,用匠心传承同安味道。因为薄饼味道好且待人和善,她被大家亲切地唤作“薄饼嫂”。( For decades, Wu Zhaozhi, an inheritor of this ICH, has devoted herself to a single pursuit - making Minnan pancakes and preserving its authentic taste from Tong'an through her craftsmanship. Her pancakes have gained widespread acclaim for their delicacy and her kindness with which she treats her customers. She has thus earned a nickname "boia bian so", or "Sister Pancake". )“吴招治,做薄饼,历史悠久很出名,选料讲究肉很精,香菇虾仁来合成,营养可口好名声,老朋友,新亲情,兄弟姐妹相宴请,赞不绝口很时行。”这是厦门方言顺口溜一代宗师汪宗辉曾为“薄饼嫂”写下的顺口溜。



如今,吴招治的薄饼店蜚声海外,闻名遐迩,是当地最大、历史最悠久的地方小吃名店,被认定为“中华老字号”。( Nowadays, Wu Zhaozhi's pancake shop has gained international fame. In addition to being the largest and oldest local snack shop in the region, it has also been recognized as a China time-honored brand.)不少台湾同胞以及海外华人华侨来到同安,都会专程赶来吃一口正宗家乡味。在他们的眼中,薄饼代表的不仅是传统美味,更是一份乡愁、一种情结。(For them, these pancakes symbolize more than a traditional delicacy; they evoke nostalgia and a sense of connection to their roots.)

林语堂爱女林太乙曾在她的书中感叹:“在厦门的烹饪中,没有什么比薄饼好吃的了。”林语堂的家人提到家宴,总不忘说起薄饼。这每一张薄饼都是阿婆们爱意的象征,虽风味各有不同,但它们汇聚成了厦门人的共同记忆。小小的薄饼,蕴含世间百味,裹进的是一种难以割舍的家乡味,卷起的是人民对这片土地的深情,深深烙印于厦门人的味觉基因。(Each pancake represents the profound love of grandmothers. Despite their diverse flavors, they unite to create a shared memory for Xiamen residents. A single small pancake encapsulates a kaleidoscope of tastes and contains an unbreakable love for one's hometown. It embodies the profound affection the locals hold for their land, and is deeply rooted in people's memories of Xiamen. )薄本裁圆月,柔还卷细筒。纷藏丝缕缕,馋嚼味融融。舌尖上的闽南,这种非遗味道不会被忘却。


本季“记忆的味道”将非遗美食与文创融合,推出非遗美食系列徽章和贴纸,同学们可以在后续线下活动中获得,敬请期待。

点击解锁同安薄饼文创设计

薄饼产品文创展现了色香味俱全的薄饼菜式,带我们走近闽南饮食文化。


参考文献

[1] 讲闽南话. 清明 | 节气の传统节日——闽南民间谚. https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/IbFi-TjfV9zqXYTKdHdb4g

[2] 福建省人民政府.福建省人民政府关于公布第五批省级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录的通知http://zfgb.fujian.gov.cn/8138

[3] 三联美食. 给我一张薄饼,卷起这个春天https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/I_vPImt43zkSsSw07DYxMA

[4] 同安发布. 二月二,吃薄饼!同安的薄饼馅料丰富香喷喷!https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/_fflMJnn4tes7vGWPuQz_A

[5] 老字号数字博物馆. 吴招治

http://lzhbwg.mofcom.gov.cn/edi_ecms_web_front/thb/detail/192872fe4c1744d18032e330664185af

[6] 福建省闽南文化研究会. 寻味同安 | 文化志愿者“薄饼嫂”吴招治亲手教你做薄饼!

https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/y-9KEd4w8HuntrqHZAKFmA

[7] 国家旅游地理网. 厦门同安薄饼:卷出“妈妈的味道”

http://news.cntgol.com/jdgz/2019/1012/234411.shtml

图片来源

[1] 厦门文化馆. 同安薄饼传统习俗http://www.xmwhg.com.cn/xwzx/hdxx/202202/t20220224_77280.htm

[2] 思明文旅. 这一口下去正是厦门春天的味道......一起来吃薄饼啦!https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Nvh429kRTMLURpLCG4GajA

[3] 福建省闽南文化研究会. 寻味同安 | 文化志愿者“薄饼嫂”吴招治亲手教你做薄饼!

https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/y-9KEd4w8HuntrqHZAKFmA

译文参考文献

[1]China Daily: Pancake, https://language.chinadaily.com.cn/a/201906/07/WS5cf9b716a31017657722ff4c_8.html

[2]https://www.yumchinesefood.com/xiamen-pancake/



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    本季“记忆的味道”聚焦非遗美食,将推出双语视频、双语推送讲述美食中的非遗文化,感悟非遗传承背后的动人故事。